• Research the various Nissan forums. I had compiled a folder of information about 1 inch thick prior to even ordering the body lift.
   
• Get a friend or two to help. Buy them beer. Buy them food. Buy them whatever they want.
   
• Set aside 3 full days to get everything done. None of it is rocket science, but it's a lot of little things that are time consuming. I had never installed a body lift and it took me three full days with help from my girlfriend.
   
• Get a set of gloves. I bought a pair of Mechanix brand gloves. Now I have cuts in the gloves instead of my hands.
   
• Identify that you have the necessary parts in your kit. The "Parts List" on my instructions were incomplete and inaccurate. Although the following picture is crappy, it basically shows the parts you should have:
  
  
   
• Once identified, place each set of lift parts in their own zip-loc bag and label them. 
   
• The following picture shows the bolts that were in my kit:
  
  
  
  1 & 2:      180mm   - These did not get used
  3 & 4:      160mm   - These are for the rear cab body mount locations. I had to use a couple extra washers on the end because the bolt was a little too long
  5 - 8:        6"            - These are for the front and middle cab body mount locations
  9 & 10:    4.5"         - These are for the rear bed body mount locations.
  11 & 12:  4"            - These are for the front bed body mount locations. (I had to buy two more of this same size for the middle body mount locations.)
  13 & 14:  80mm    - These are for extending the driveshaft safety loop, (with the two metal sleeves included in the kit.)
   
• Get underneath your truck and identify all of the body mount points and familiarizes yourself with the parts in the kit and where they will be going on your truck.
   
• Use masking tape to mark the alignment of your cab and bed to ensure you have both at the proper height after lifting both. After running a piece of tape spanning the cab and bed, I used a level to draw a line in pencil from the piece of tape on the cab to the corresponding piece of tape on the bed. Also measure the distance between the cab and the bed in a few places and record the numbers.
   

  After both cab and bed were lifted 2".

  After the bed only was lifted 2".

   

• Don't use the metal fuel filler extension pipe supplied in the kit. Just buy some longer bulk hose at your local auto parts store. Take in the extension pipe to determine the correct size. I bought a longer section of bulk radiator hose to replace the stock fuel filler line.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, then positive battery cable.

2. Remove air bag fuse from the fuse box.

3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

4. Strap your steering wheel securely to both  grab handles and the brake so that it doesn't move after you have loosed the top bolt on the steering shaft.

    
 
5. Mark the steering shaft at the top with chalk to ensure proper allignment after the lift in case any movement occurs. In the picture below for Step 6, you can see the chalk marks above and below the splines on the steering shaft.

6. Loosen the top bolt holding the upper splines of the steering shaft in place. (Circled in yellow above.) This will allow the steering shaft to extend when you lift the body.

    

7. Disconnect the power steering reservoir from it's mount. (Slide it up and out.)

8. Remove the two screws and brake vacuum line guard from the passenger side of the frame located just inside the passenger side fender well.

    
                                       Picture taken after the lift was installed.

9. Remove the two bolts holding the line brackets in place.

    

  The bolts in the yellow circles are from the removed line guard. (I screwed them back into their holes so they wouldn't get lost. The bolts in the blue circles are what you want to remove to allow slack for the brackets to move.

10. Follow the lines above rear-ward along the framerail and pop out the brackets from their attachments along the framerail.

 

11. Remove the two bolts holding the driveshaft safety loop to the floorboards.

    

  Just leave the safety loop hanging downward for now.



12. Remove the front bumper. The following is a picture with the front bumper removed.

    

13. Remove the wheel well liners.

14. Remove the lower radiator fan shroud. It is about 2" wide by about 18" long.

Removing the lower fan shroud allows you to skip all of the radiator relocation steps. You will just leave that lower fan shroud off after the body lift is complete.

15. Remove the one screw and one clip from the passenger side floor kick panel. Peel back the carpet to expose the middle cab body mount bolt cover.

16. Remove the one screw and one clip from the passenger side floor kick panel. Peel back the carpet to expose the middle cab body mount bolt cover.

    

17. Remove the two upper bolts attaching the outside support bracket to the body. Do this for each side. The support bracket is located on the rear cab body mounting bolt.

      

  You can leave the nuts circled in yellow alone. The bolts you want to remove are located directly above those and are attached to the body.

18. Remove the rear bumper and disconnect the rear license plate lights.

19. Remove the bumper brackets and tow hitch if you have one installed. NOTE: This step is not necessary if you do a little modification that will be described in a later step below, but I had to do it to get my torque wrench to fit in the tight space.

20. Remove the three screws from the fuel filler neck and the bed. (Screw locations circled in yellow)

  Some people may have enough slack in their fuel filler line to accommodate the 2" of lift, but mine didn't.



  Just leave the fuel filler lines resting on the tire for now.

21. Remove the 2 nuts from the 2 front most cab body bolts. Do not remove the bolts. There will be two (one on each side)  in the front.


                (Picture shows block and new longer bolt already installed)

22. Remove the 2 nuts (one on each side) from the 2 middle cab body bolts. Do not remove the bolts.

23. Loosen the rear cab body bolt on the passenger side.


                                        (Picture shows new bolts and brackets already installed)

24. Remove the rear cab body bolt from the driver side. The outside support bracket will come off now that the bolt is out.


                                        (Picture shows new bolts and brackets already installed)

25. Attach two of the four outside body support bracket extensions using the same stock bolts that held the support bracket to the body. Do not tighten. The four brackets inside the blue square pictures below are the four outside support brackets.



26. Remove the middle cab body bolt from the driver side. I used a hammer to tap the bolt upward to loosen in from the plastic cover on top of it.

27. Remove the front driver side body bolt.


                (Picture shows block and new longer bolt already installed)

28. Raise the driver side slowly with a jack and a block of wood on top of it. This is where it helps to have someone watching the engine compartment for things getting too tight and listening for things straining while you are raising the body.

29. When there is enough space for the 2" round blocks to fit between the mount points and the body at the thee cab locations, insert them. Do not lower the body yet.

30. Add lock-tite to the threads and place the rear cab driver side body bolt through the bolt opening on the outside body support bracket and install the bolt up through the block and into the threads. Do not tighten. I had to use more washers than pictured because the supplied bolt was a little too long.

 

31. Install the nuts onto the bolts that are attached to the support bracket and secure the bracket to the bracket extensions using the 5/16" x 1" bolts, 5/16" washers, and 5/16" nuts. Do not tighten.



Here's a pic from the side:



32. Insert the middle cab driver side body bolt down through the hole by the kick panel. Screw the nylock nut onto the bolt. Do not tighten.

33. Insert the front cab driver side body bolt down through the front body mount hole. Screw the nylock nut onto the bolt. Do not tighten.

34. Remove the rear cab body bolt from the passenger side. The outside support bracket will come off now that the bolt is out.

35. Attach two of the four outside body support bracket extensions using the same stock bolts that held the support bracket to the body. Do not tighten.

36. Remove the middle cab body bolt from the passenger side. I used a hammer to tap the bolt upward to loosen in from the plastic cover on top of it.

37. Remove the front passenger side body bolt.

38. Raise the passenger side slowly with a jack and a block of wood on top of it. Watch out for the clips holding the brake and vacuum lines snapping in the engine compartment. I had to loosen the lines from their snap-in mounts in these locations:



Also watch out for the lines that are behind the line guard that you removed. I had to remove one of the snaps that was holding four of them together.

Lines behind the line guard in their stock position:


Lines behind the line guard after the lift:


To a certain extent  you can uncoil the lines inside the engine compartment after you're done with the body lift and try to get them close to where they were in the stock positions.

39. When there is enough space for the 2" round blocks to fit between the mount points and the body at the thee cab locations, insert them. Do not lower the body yet.